by Paul Clements @DT Travel
Why go?
For an autumn sun break in a relaxed, artful city that, unlike other supposed capitals of cool, prefers not to show off. With its dramatically hilly location on the Atlantic coast, Portugal's second city – best known as the historic home of port wine – and much more in fact! - has plenty it could shout about, not least an amazing old town with characterful winding streets, tiled churches and World Heritage-protected status.
The Ribeira neighbourhood, with its down-at-heel quayside and authentic street-life vibe, acts as the city's main magnet. While there are no major, must-see landmarks, Porto is still a great place to burn shoe leather: the mighty Douro river offers long, peaceful walks to miles of sandy beaches, while its steep banks, dotted with shady parks and panoramic viewing posts, will appeal to the urban rambler.
And with daytime temperatures still in the sunny +25C!
Spend the morning…
Ticking off the sights in the old town, whose buildings date from the middle ages, many of which are decorated with azulejos, typical blue and white tiling. To get your bearings, climb the Torre dos Clérigos, an 18th-century bell tower with 225 steps. Take a tour of the austere Sé Cathedral, where long-standing Anglo-Portuguese relations were forged in 1386, when João I of Portugal married Philippa of Lancaster. With a gothic apse and rose window, the hillside church of St Francis (igreja de São Francisco) is also worth
the schlep.
the schlep.
More secular delights include the vibrant Bolhão market, and the São Bento train station, whose vestibule is decorated with 20,000 painted tiles depicting scenes from Portuguese history.
Spend the afternoon…
Messing about on – or along – the river. Traditional barcos rabelosshuttle tourists along the Douro from the Ribeira quayside. Better still, head for the beaches in Foz and Matosinhos on foot along the sun-drenched esplanade, or hitch a ride on the rickety historic tram from outside the Museu do Carro Eléctrico (museu-carro-electrico.stcp.pt),which terminates at the start of the praias.
Art lovers might prefer to explore the Fundação de Serralves (Rua Dom João de Castro 210, www.serralves.pt), an Art Deco complex set in magnificent grounds, which exhibits the works of contemporary Portuguese painters, designers and sculptors.
Spend the evening…
People-watching on the Ribeira quayside, where barflies are attracted to water's-edge café tables by the promise of picturesque sundowners. Sup an ice-cold Super Bock as the billboards of the ancient port lodges across the river flick into life, a nightly event that's more beguiling than perhaps it sounds.
For proper live entertainment, try the Casa de Música (Avenida da Boavista 604-610, 00351 220 120 220, www.casadamusica.com), a wonky concrete Rubik's Cube of a concert hall designed by Dutch "starchitect" Rem Koolhaas. Besides the roster of performances by visiting world orchestras, fado singers and rock stars there's an impressive seventh-floor restaurant and roof terrace.
Enjoy and take the best of it!)
